Log Cabin Installation Hints, Tips and Essentials.
Foundation
It is imperative that the foundation is flat, level and
of sufficient size.
(*** It is important to note that any
deviation in the cabin foundation will transfer to the log cabin and will affect
the solidity of the floor, the smooth operation of the doors and windows, the
alignment of locking mechanisms, place undue strain on the cabin corner
connections and also create an uneven level of the wall / gable connection.***)
Product layout preparation
It is recommended that once the cabin joists have been
positioned on the foundation, the wall elements are poisoned adjacent to area
they will be installed and stacked in reverse order as they will be needed.
This will ensure that limited viewing of the wall plans takes place and windows
etc will be installed at the correct height. Please keep an eye out to ensure
that walls with storm rods must have pre-drilled holes at the end of each log.
(*** A little time spent on the product
layout now will save huge amounts of time and limits the chance of error when
construction takes place. This also confirms you have everything you need to
complete the shell***)
Starting construction
Ensure the foundation beams are centred correctly as per manufacturer
plans. (Should you wish to use a DPC, please install above and below the
foundation joists) Starting with the half logs, lay the 1st row of
wall logs ensuring the cabin joists at each end are set slightly inwards to
allow a drip edge to form by the grooves under the log. Pre-drill and screw the
corners. Once 3 or 4 logs high, it is imperative you measure the diagonals.
This is the only way to ensure the building is fully square.
(***Failure
to do this will create ill fitting floor boards, roof bards and fascias***)
Build up
Ensure the tongues and grooves of the logs are free from
debris, and that the knocking block supplied is used to protect the tongues.
Once the gable and roof purlins are installed please ensure they are fixed into
position.
Storm Rods
Please insert the storm rods, tighten all fixings and cut
away any excess rod material.
(***If this is left too long, when the building settles
it will push up and push through the roof***)
Floor and Roof Boards
Ensure that a 10mm expansion gap is left at the start and at
the end. It is imperative that each floor and roof board is not butted up too
close to the next board and must be fixed with 2 fixings per board per joist.
Shingles
(***Before applying the shingles, ensure that the eaves
fascia is installed to give the full area required to be covered***)
Please follow the build guide as to how to start and finish
your tiling. It is imperative that you nail the shingles on in the location
shown in the below image. This ensures that it not only holds the shingle you
are on, but also that of the one directly underneath. Each shingle will the end
up with a double row of nails holding it down.
Door and Window Fascia.
It is imperative that any door and window fascia is fixed
onto the frames only and not into any logs.
(*** Any nails penetrating the logs will stop the
natural settling process and create gaps between wall logs***)
Settling and Fixtures
A typical log cabin can expand and contract up to 50 mm
across the 4 seasons. It is therefore imperative that nothing is fixed to
restrict this movement. Electrical conduit is the most common item to cause
issues. This needs to be installed to allow for this movement i.e. expandable
joints and surplus cable or elongated fixing holes to allow the conduit to move
with the walls.
Treatment & Sealant
Treatment should take place as soon after installation as possible. Treatment must be of a micro-porous nature to allow the timber to protect and breath. Once fully coated and dried, silicone sealant must be applied from eaves to foundation in the external corners to bring the wind proof corner connection joints to weather resistant.
Visit our Website for more information and our full product range: www.lillevilla.co.uk
Email: ben@lillevilla.co.uk
Phone Number: 01245 400202